The Big Guide to Bari

Once an important Roman settlement and second only to Naples in terms of its strategic importance as a port, the city is increasingly cosmopolitan. Ignore warnings that Bari Vecchia is a gritty “no-go” area. Extensive regeneration has transformed the area into a vibrant hub for bars and restaurants centred around the piazzas Mercantile and Ferrarese and a fine destination for visitors.

The Basics

Bari is the main point of entry for many arriving in Puglia - by air, ferry or train.

While it may not be most visitors’ ultimate destination, Bari is becoming a popular base for those on a shorter city-break or using public transport to get around the region.

Bari Vecchia - a knot of narrow streets and alleyways - is the highlight of a trip to our regional capital. Vibrant but not yet overly commercial. The Baresi podcast team members rave about the culture and nightlife on offer, telling us that their city is “buzzing”.

There may be sparking, expensively refurbished apartments with amazing terraces overlooking the Adriatic but in the old town you can still see the way that longtime residents of the old town have always lived.

Front doors open into the cool shadow of narrow alleyways. The sound of food being prepared and the chattering of families dining together echoes all around. Laundry hangs from balconies, drying in the lazy heat of the afternoon.

Everyday life as it has been, and still is, continues all around the old town.

The Basilica San Nicola houses the relics of the city’s patron saint. It was here in the 11th century that Peter the Hermit preached the First Crusade.

Visitors from far and wide, many Russian - a statue gifted by Russia in 2003 watches over the square within which the church sits - still flock to the crypt where his mass is celebrated by Catholics and Orthodox Christians alike, reinforcing Bari’s importance as a destination of religious pilgrimage.

The Castello Svevo stands on the edge of the old town, near the port and the basilica. A massive 13th century walled fortress it now houses a museum.

The Murat district south of the old town was built by Joachim-Napoléon Murat, King of Naples from 1808 - 1815 by virtue of being Napoleon's brother-in-law, in an attempt to improve conditions. Laid out on a practical grid system its an early example of modern town planning.

Street food is becoming ever more present, and the highlight of the Bari calendar is the festa di San Nicola held in May to commemorate the arrival of the relics of the city’s patron saint (his saint day on 6 December is also celebrated locally).

Bari’s Pasta-Makers: Tradition, Tourism and Tension

Bari Vecchia is famous for its pastaie – the pasta-making nonnas who sit outside their front doors rolling orecchiette with the flick of a thumb. It’s one of the most iconic sights of the old town and a living part of the city’s character.

But in August 2025, the pasta-makers found themselves in the headlines for all the wrong reasons. At the height of the summer season, municipal police seized more than 150 kilos of goods – taralli, orecchiette and sun-dried tomatoes – from stalls in Strada Arco Basso, one of the best-known streets for fresh pasta. Officials said the products were being sold without authorisation and, in some cases, were not handmade at all.

They have since underlined that Bari is committed to safeguarding the tradition of fresh orecchiette. The pastaie are free to display their handmade pasta and even demonstrate the process – something visitors love to watch. What isn’t acceptable is passing off factory-made pasta as artisanal, or selling food products without proper permits.

This isn’t a new problem. An earlier investigation revealed that industrially produced orecchiette were being sold to tourists as “handmade,” sometimes at inflated prices.

Watching the pastaie at work is one of the city’s best known experiences.  Celebrate the tradition, and support those who practise it honestly, but be wary of produce that may not be what it seems.

If you want to be sure of fresh made artisan orecchiette buy from nearby Cala Tin Puglia.

Bari - a brief history

To best understand Bari a history lesson is a good place to start.

Believed to have been inhabited since 1500 BC the Greek influence on Bari’s origins was strong. Under the Romans, Barium as it was then called, became an important port and effectively the economic centre of the region. To this day Bari remains an important commercial centre and trading port.

A Saracen stronghold in the 9th century AD, the city became the seat of the Byzantine governor of Puglia in 885. Following a 3-year siege of the city it was captured for the Normans by Robert Guiscard in 1071. Peter the Hermit preached the First Crusade there in 1096, and a large party of crusaders embarked from its port.

A defining event in Bari’s history occurred under Norman rule when sailors from Bari in competition with others from Venice set out to retrieve the remains of San Nicola from the Turks. The Barese succeeded in recovering his relics which were then brought to Bari on 9th May 1087. On each anniversary we celebrate the “Translation of the Relics of Saint Nicholas from Myra to Bari”.

To this day his relics rest at the Basilica of Saint Nicholas built by the people of Bari for that purpose and which remains Bari’s most important building.

Razed by William the Bad of Sicily in 1156, Bari acquired new greatness under Emperor Frederick II (1220–50). An independent duchy under a succession of rulers from the 14th century, it passed from the Sforza family to the kingdom of Naples in 1558 and became part of the Italian kingdom in 1860.

Notwithstanding the importance of the port to the economy of the region, the area was home to many court seats during the Hohenstaufen, Anjou and Aragon kingdoms. Nearby Barletta, Bitonto and Andria were all thriving towns. For example the Castel del Monte built by Frederick II, another of Puglia’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, is located outside Andria.

As such Bari did not really gained a hegemonic role in the same way Palermo gained it in Sicily or Naples in Campania. At least not until the the Modern age. Consequently Bari lacks a bit in monumentality or something really outstanding (besides the Cathedral and the seafront) and is without the "wow factor" that can be found elsewhere in Puglia’s towns and cities.

Where to eat

Throughout history Bari’s old port, sitting on the Molo San Nicola, has been an important fishery. It’s not without its dark past. In Medieval times it was an important trading post for “white gold”. Slaves. Mainly Slavic, sold for service in North Africa.

These days the seafood market trades the daily catch; local fishermen sell raw seafood, Bari’s speciality.

As with the rest of our region good food is easy to find. Don’t obsess about finding the Instagram perfect meal. Follow your nose ... and the locals.

Barivecchia | packed full of gems where eating is a pleasure. Here’s our full list of the best restaurants in Bari to eat the traditional dishes of Bari, from from frutti di mare crudo to tiella di patate, riso e cozze.

Street food | street food is becoming ever popular | the panzerotti* are exceptional | try some focaccia, salumi, cheese, sgagliozze, and home made gelato | for focaccia barese we especially recommend Panificio Fiore and Panificio Santa Rita in the old town € | check out our guide how to eat like a local in Bari with the Puglia Guys guide to Bari’s best restaurants and street food.

Mastrociccio | fast food Bari style! This is an excellent, authentic spot for more, great street food. Particularly well known for ‘U Pulp’ (polpo panino – Octopus in a bun). Slow cooked in a terracotta pignata, with fresh tomato, garlic, bay leaf and parsley and served with burrata, sun dried dried tomato, for depth of flavour and a touch of sweetness, salted corn crumble, rocket and finished with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a sprinkle of black pepper. Magnifico! € | Mastrociccio website | Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 17.

Porto Vecchio | Molo San Nicola | enjoy a freshly caught raw seafood lunch served up by the fisherman returning to port | we recommend freshly opened ricci (sea urchin) served with a hunk of bread and a wedge of lemon with a cold beer | mix from the catch of the day; sliced octopus, calamari, urchins, prawns and the pinkest shrimp, plump oysters and juicy mussels | €

El Chiringuito  | Porto Vecchio, Molo S. Nicola | an absolute must for a panzerotto and Peroni | a no-frills hang-out from sunrise to sunset and beyond where young Baresi congregate to the sounds of reggae and lapping waves | €

Spaghetti all’assassina  | Originating from Bari, the dish should be three things. Burnt, crispy and fiery | the technique is unusual, the taste unique!| the dish originated at the end of the 1960s at  Al Sorso Preferito, in Bari's city centre | they still serve it | for a modern take try Urban Bistrot visited by Stanley Tucci on his ‘Searching for Italy’ TV series | €€ | the story of Bari’s must-eat dish, spaghetti all’assassina and the Puglia Guys assassin’s trail for the best all’assassina in Bari. 

Tiramisù | for a twist on the classic recipe try La Ciclatera Sotto il Mare | read our full review | 🌈

El Pedro | Budget Bari! El Pedro is one of Bari’s best open secrets. Loved by its patrons - from construction workers to nearby office workers, this canteen style restaurant serves up AMAZING local dishes at ridiculous prices (€4/€5 for a generous portion). Keep in mind we don’t eat bad food, so do not let these prices put you off. Must try dishes at El Pedro include orecchiette con cime di rapa and fave e cicoria. Bari residents know all about it, visitors hardly ever. For your value added bonus, you see a slice of real life. It’s somewhat hidden away, but it is here, so pass through that magic door and enjoy.

* Panzerotti are Bari’s other specialty; fried dough filled with tomato and mozzarella.

Check out this Best of Bari Eating Out Guide for full details on the traditional dishes of Bari, and where to go to eat them.

Love Puglia | Bari Eating Out Guide for Foodies

What To do

Free Walking Tour Bari |the Puglia Guys recommend taking part in the Free Walking Tour Bari around the old town (called “The First”). The tour is led by a qualified, local guide. At a little under 3km it takes just over 2 hours, and is in English (there is a separate Italian tour as well, as also a separate “The Jungle” tour). At the end of the tour you are invited to pay what you want..

Contemporary art and design | visit Spazio Murat and their Puglia Design Store | located on the Piazza del Ferrarese at the edge of Bari Vecchia it bridges the old and the modern | info@spaziomurat.it | +39 080.2055856.

Pinacoteca Corrado Giaquinto | Via Spalato 19 - Lungomare Nazario Sauro 27, 70121 Bari  | +39 080 541 2422 | a hidden gem of an art gallery with a small but interesting collection | pinacotecabari.it

Promenade along the lungomare | Bari has an exceptionally long seafront | walk from the old port on Molo San Nicola to the ever popular Pane e Pomodoro urban beach.

Stroll along Bari’s Strada delle Orecchiette | watch the grandmothers make and sell fresh pasta outside their front doors | via dell'Arco Basso, Bari Vecchia.

Visit the Madonella quarter | diverse and popular with students | soak up the ambience in the quiet local-only bars - Prinz Zaum a bar come bookshop with readings and live music is our favourite.

Explore #1 | make efficient use of your time in Bari as a base to explore nearby towns with outstanding cultural and  historical heritage which are very easy to reach by train | Barletta | Trani | Bitonto | Andria | or the lesser known but no less lovely towns such as Ruvo di Puglia and Giovinazzo.

Explore #2| Matera is a wonderful city to visit, easily accessible by road (and usually by train) and only 64km from Bari | Altamura famed for its bread is en route | Castel del Monte “a unique masterpiece of medieval military architecture” is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is an easily managed detour.

La festa di San Nicola

The arrival of the relics of Saint Nicholas on 9 May 1087 is marked each year by a city-wide festival split over 3 days, Bari’s most important event.

On the first day of the patronal festival his painting is taken to sea. San Nicola is also the patron saint of seafarers. A grand parade takes place that night; historically themed with a procession of floats and about 500 people dressed in 11th century costume.

A sea procession is the main focus of the next day. San Nicola’s statue is taken far out to sea. A flotilla including local fishermen accompany his return at the end of the day. His statue is carried in a torchlit procession back to the basilica. That evening hosts the main fireworks competition.

The last day finishes with a final mass and a choir sing while the relics are blessed. The festival finishes with an airforce display and fireworks.

During the festival luminarie light up the streets and piazze, there is street food and cultural events take place across the city.

Exploring Bari’s Architectural and Spiritual Heritage: The Basilica of San Nicola and the Cathedral of Santa Maria

The Basilica of San Nicola and the Cathedral of Santa Maria both stand as testaments to the Bari’s resilience, faith, and artistic ingenuity. They continue to shape Bari’s cultural identity and remain essential stops.

A Tale of Two Churches

The intertwined histories of the two churches reflect the shifting tides of rulers and religious devotion in Bari. The Cathedral, initially conceived in the 11th century, was the vision of Bishop Byzantium, who sought to build a grander structure on top of the remains of an older church. His successors continued the ambitious project, incorporating elements from Roman structures and commissioning skilled artisans like Acceptus, a prominent medieval architectural master.

Meanwhile, Bari found itself caught in the transition from Byzantine to Norman rule. In 1071, the Normans seized the city, bringing profound changes, particularly to its religious landscape. The most famous event of this period occurred in 1087 when a group of sailors from Bari brought back the relics of Saint Nicholas from Myra. This set the stage for the construction of the Basilica of San Nicola, which soon became a centre of pilgrimage and an architectural benchmark for Puglia’s Romanesque style.

Rivalry and Religious Strategy

Although the Basilica of San Nicola quickly gained prominence, the Cathedral was far from forgotten. Elias, the abbot-turned-archbishop, cleverly reinforced its significance by rediscovering the relics of Saint Sabinus, an act that solidified the Cathedral’s status in Bari’s religious hierarchy. Both churches continued to evolve over the following centuries, witnessing political upheavals, artistic innovations, and extensive restorations that shaped their present-day forms.

Architectural Marvels of Puglian Romanesque

Both the Basilica and the Cathedral embody the distinctive features of Puglian Romanesque architecture, yet they each possess unique characteristics. The Basilica of San Nicola, with its sturdy, fortress-like presence, hides its apses behind a unifying façade, a design choice that later influenced the Cathedral and other regional churches. Its interior, with massive pillars and an imposing matroneum gallery, exudes a sense of grandeur and solemnity.

In contrast, the Cathedral’s verticality is one of its defining features, enhanced by its dome and bell towers—though only one of the original twin towers remains standing today. Inside, the space feels lighter and more open, with elegantly arched windows and an airy transept that creates a sense of elevation. Despite their differences, both churches share a legacy of detailed sculptural decoration, much of which was crafted by master stonemasons and sculptors whose work remains an integral part of Bari’s artistic heritage.

Political Symbolism and Artistic Flourishing

Throughout history, these churches were not just places of worship but also symbols of political power. The Basilica, favoured by the Normans, played a crucial role in legitimising their rule, as evidenced by the mosaic where Saint Nicholas crowns King Roger. The Cathedral, on the other hand, became a hub for the city’s elite and a focal point of resistance during conflicts, including the Norman suppression of a Bari uprising in 1156.

Both churches display rich works of art. From the Cathedra of Abbot Elias, a masterpiece of medieval sculpture, to the richly adorned ciborium and the legendary Portal of the Lions, these monuments encapsulate centuries of artistic endeavour. The sculpted reliefs on the Basilica’s portal, depicting medieval knights in battle, continue to spark scholarly debates about their historical and literary significance.

Legacy of Transformation

Despite their medieval roots, both the Basilica and the Cathedral underwent significant changes over the centuries. The Renaissance and Baroque periods brought lavish chapels, intricate stucco decorations, and grand tombs, such as the Mausoleum of Bona Sforza in the Basilica. However, 20th-century restorations aimed at reviving their medieval character led to the removal of many later additions, a decision that remains controversial among art historians.

Getting to Bari

By Air

Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport (BRI) is Puglia’s main international gateway, around 12 km northwest of the city centre. It’s well connected to destinations across Italy and Europe, with direct flights from Rome, Milan, Naples, London, Paris, Berlin, Zurich, and many others.

Getting into Bari city:
From the arrivals terminal, follow signs to the south exit — the Aeroporto railway station is directly opposite. Trains run roughly every 20–30 minutes and take about 18 minutes to reach Bari Centrale, the city’s main station.
You’ll also find bus connections at the side of the train station entrance: the Tempesta Shuttle Bus and Amtab Line 16both run to Bari Centrale (around 30–40 minutes depending on traffic). Taxis and car hire desks are right outside the terminal.

Travelling onward:
Before booking your flight, also check Brindisi’s Salento Airport (BDS) — depending on your final destination, it may be closer and more convenient. For example, Alberobello is quicker to reach from Brindisi than from Bari.
Read more in our guide: Bari or Brindisi Airport?

By train

Bari Centrale is one of southern Italy’s main railway hubs, served by Trenitalia, Italo, and Ferrovie del Sud Est (FSE)lines. It has direct high-speed and intercity connections with Italy’s major cities:

• Rome → Bari: ~4 hours (Frecciarossa or Italo)

• Milan → Bari: ~7–8 hours (Frecciarossa or Intercity Notte overnight)

• Naples → Bari: ~3.5 hours (Intercity or Regionale Veloce)

From Bari, frequent regional trains run along the Adriatic line to Polignano a Mare, Monopoli, Ostuni, Brindisi, Lecce, and inland to Matera (via the Ferrovia Appulo Lucane line).

From Bari Airport, the direct train to Bari Centrale is the quickest and easiest option for travellers without heavy luggage.

Around the station:
Bari Centrale opens onto Piazza Aldo Moro, a lively student-filled square lined with cafés. Follow Via Sparano da Barithrough Piazza Umberto I for Bari’s main shopping street — it’s about a 15-minute walk to Bari Vecchia, the old town.

At the front of the station is the Piazza Aldo Moro, a clean and pleasant space dominated by the fountain and surrounded by parking areas. The square is usually buzzing with students. The main university building is one block away on the opposite side.

Piazza Aldo Moro in turn leads onto via Sparano da Bari which continues through the Piazza Umberto I and onto Bari’s main shopping precinct. Most of it is pedestrianised. Continuing all the way to its end, across the Corso Vittorio Emanuele is Bari Vecchia- the old town.

It’s about a 15 minute walk from the station to the old town.

By bus

Long-distance coaches offer good-value connections between Bari and most major Italian cities:

• Rome → Bari: around 5–6 hours (FlixBus, Itabus, MarinoBus)

• Milan → Bari: around 10–11 hours (FlixBus, MarinoBus)

• Naples → Bari: around 3.5–4 hours (Itabus, FlixBus)

Most services arrive and depart from Bari Centrale Bus Terminal (Via Capruzzi), located just behind the main train station. Local city buses and taxis are available here for the short trip to Bari Vecchia or the seafront.

For exploring the region, there are also frequent regional buses operated by Ferrovie del Sud Est and COTRAP, connecting Bari with Alberobello, Locorotondo, Martina Franca, Cisternino, and smaller inland towns not directly served by train.

See our Puglia Guys guide to using Public Transport in Puglia for detailed information on getting around Puglia using public transport.

By sea

Bari is one of the Adriatic’s busiest ferry ports, connecting Italy with Croatia, Albania, Montenegro, and Greece. Ferries arrive at the Porto di Bari, just north of the old town — about a 20-minute walk from Bari Vecchia or a short taxi ride.

Main ferry routes include:

• Bari ↔ Dubrovnik (Croatia) — Jadrolinija

• Bari ↔ Bar (Montenegro) — Montenegro Lines

• Bari ↔ Durrës (Albania) — Adria Ferries, Ventouris Ferries

• Bari ↔ Corfu / Igoumenitsa / Patras (Greece) — Superfast, Anek Lines

There are also summer sailings to Cefalonia and Zakynthos. Most ferries operate overnight, and terminals have left luggage facilities, cafés, and car rental desks.

By car

If you’re driving into Bari — or hiring a car from the airport — you’ll come via the Bari Tangenziale (SS16), the main ring road that circles the city and connects with the Adriatic highway from Ancona to Lecce.

Coming from the south, exit the SS16 for Lungomare Nazario Sauro to follow Bari’s scenic seafront directly into the city centre and Bari Vecchia — this is also the best route to our recommended parking areas (see below).

Traffic tips:
The tangenziale is easy to navigate but busy at times:

• Morning and afternoon rush hour: 8:30–9:30am, 4:30–6:30pm

• Ferragosto (15 August) and other national holidays (including the days either side and around these holidays)

• Sunday evenings returning from the coast (especially from Polignano a Mare northwards)

Normally it takes around 25 minutes to circle the ring road to or from the airport, but at busy times allow up to 50 minutes.
See our full Guide to Driving in Puglia for detailed information on navigating the SS16 tangenziale and parking in Bari.

Parking

Depending on the time of day you can get lucky. Our preference is to park on the Lungomare Araldo di Crollalanza by the Molo San Nicola, at the Porto Vecchio - right by the legendary El Chiringuito.

If it is full, continue around the old town, following Giardino Vito Carofiglio, Lungomare Imperatore Augusto and Corso Antonio de Tullio.

The blue lines/boxes indicate pay as you go parking.

Want some more?

On the Assassins Trail - the story behind Bari’s unique burnt spaghetti dish, its revival and where to go in Bari to eat the best spaghetti all’assassina (with the original recipe and variations).

Love Puglia | The Legend of Bari’s Spaghetti all’Assassina